Kerala Backwaters

This Kerala Backwaters travel guide covers how to explore the waterways of south India by houseboat, canoe and on foot. The Kerala Backwaters are a web of lakes, lagoons, rivers and canals running behind the coast of the Arabian Sea in India‘s south-western state of Kerala. Villages line the banks, linked by footpaths, small ferries and narrow bridges, and life follows the rhythm of the water. Coconut palms lean over the canals, rice grows in green fields that sit lower than the water around them, and the only sounds are often birds and the splash of a paddle. Most visitors come to slow down, and the backwaters are the right place to do it.

Where to go on the Kerala Backwaters

The backwaters stretch along much of the Kerala coast, but most travellers focus on the area around Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala, between Kochi in the north and Kollam in the south.

Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Alappuzha, still widely known by its old name Alleppey, is the main base for houseboat trips. Canals run through the town itself, and the wider waterways lead south into Kuttanad, a region of rice paddies farmed below the level of the surrounding water and protected by earth banks. Here you will see farmers at work, ducks herded along the canals and small churches and temples by the water. Alappuzha also has a long sandy beach, and the quieter coast at Marari lies a short drive north.

Kumarakom

Kumarakom sits on the eastern shore of Vembanad Lake, near Kottayam. It is quieter than Alappuzha, with lakeside lodges set among palms and canals, and it makes a relaxing base for a few days. Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, on the edge of the lake, is a good place to look for herons, egrets, cormorants and kingfishers, especially in the early morning. Sightings depend on season and luck, but even a short walk with a guide usually turns up plenty of birdlife.

Village canals

Some of the best moments happen away from the main channels. Small canoes or country boats can slip into narrow canals that the large houseboats cannot reach, passing houses, gardens, schools and boatyards. A slow paddle in the early morning, or a guided walk along the banks, gives a far more personal view of village life, with chances to see coir rope being made from coconut fibre, fishermen casting nets and toddy tappers climbing palms.

Houseboats and life on the water

The traditional houseboats of Kerala are based on the kettuvallam, the large wooden boats that once carried rice and spices along these waterways. They were built from planks of wood tied together with coir rope, with curved roofs of woven palm and bamboo. Today’s houseboats keep that shape but have bedrooms, bathrooms and an open deck for watching the scenery go by.

A typical cruise sets off around midday, drifts through the lakes and canals in the afternoon and moors for the night by a village or rice field. A small crew looks after you, and a cook prepares Kerala dishes on board: fish curry, vegetables with coconut, rice and fresh fruit. Houseboats vary a great deal in size and comfort, so we choose one that suits you, from a cosy boat for two to a larger one for a family. In peak season the main channels near Alappuzha can be busy, so we look for routes on quieter water.

If you visit during the monsoon season, you may see the famous snake boat races, when long, narrow boats with dozens of rowers race to the rhythm of boat songs. The biggest races take place on the lakes near Alappuzha, usually around August. Dates vary each year, so we confirm them when we plan your trip.

Best time to visit the Kerala Backwaters

The best time to visit the Kerala Backwaters is from October to March, when days are sunny and humidity is lower. The monsoon brings heavy rain but turns the landscape a vivid green, and it is a traditional season for Ayurvedic treatments.

How long to stay and how the backwaters fit a trip

Two to three nights is enough for most people. A popular plan is one night on a houseboat followed by one or two nights at a lakeside stay in Kumarakom or near Alappuzha, with time for canoe trips and village walks.

Kochi is the usual gateway, with its international airport, Chinese fishing nets and historic Fort Kochi quarter. From Kochi it is about two hours by road to either Alappuzha or Kumarakom. A classic Kerala route of around ten days to two weeks might start in Kochi, head up to the tea plantations of Munnar and the forests of Periyar, then come down to the backwaters before ending with a few days on the beach.

Kerala also combines well with other parts of the country. Flights from Kochi make it easy to add Goa or Mumbai, or to begin with the north, perhaps Delhi and Agra, before flying south to relax. Kerala is also close to Sri Lanka, so a combined trip is possible with a short flight.

Tips for the backwaters

• Pack light: houseboat cabins have limited space, so a soft bag is easier than a large suitcase.
• Bring insect repellent: mosquitoes are active around dusk on the water.
• Dress modestly in villages: cover shoulders and knees, and remove shoes before entering temples or homes.
• Get up early: mornings are cool and still, and the best time for birds and canoe trips.
• Ask before photographing: people are usually friendly, but always ask first.

Best months: October, November, December, January, February, March

Recommended stay: 2–3 nights