Varanasi
Varanasi, on the banks of the Ganges, is one of the oldest living cities in the world and the most sacred in Hinduism, a place of ghats, temples, prayer and river light.
Varanasi is unlike anywhere else, and the things to do in Varanasi all lead back to the river. For Hindus, the Ganges, known in India as the Ganga, is sacred, and Varanasi, also called Kashi or Banaras, is its holiest city. Pilgrims come to bathe, pray and, for many families, to cremate their loved ones, in the belief that dying here brings release from the cycle of rebirth. For visitors, it is a chance to see centuries-old rituals that are still part of daily life in India. It is intense, crowded and deeply moving.
What to see and do in Varanasi
Life in Varanasi faces the river. The city stretches along the western bank of the Ganges, while the far shore is mostly open sand. The best way to understand it is from the water, then on foot with a guide.
The ghats
The ghats are the long flights of stone steps that lead down to the river. There are dozens of them, each with its own temples, history and character. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the busiest, with priests, flower sellers and pilgrims at all hours. Assi Ghat, at the southern end, is more relaxed and popular for morning yoga and music. A walk along the riverbank from one to the other takes you past bathers, washermen, wrestlers, cows, boat builders and holy men, and gives a sense of how much of the city’s life happens on these steps.
Boat ride at dawn
A rowing boat at sunrise is the classic Varanasi experience. As the light grows, you drift past pilgrims bathing and offering prayers, people practising yoga, and temples glowing pink and gold. It is calm and quiet compared with the rest of the day. You can also set a small leaf boat with a candle and flowers on the water, a simple offering that many visitors enjoy.
The evening Ganga aarti
Every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, young priests perform the Ganga aarti, a ceremony of fire, incense, bells and chanting in honour of the river. Crowds gather on the steps and in boats on the water. Watching from a boat gives you a clear view, while sitting on the ghat lets you feel part of the gathering. A smaller morning aarti takes place at Assi Ghat.
The cremation ghats
Manikarnika and Harishchandra are the main cremation ghats, where fires burn day and night. For Hindus, being cremated here is a great blessing, and families bring bodies from far away. Visitors may watch from a respectful distance, often from a boat, but please do not take photographs of cremations or mourners, and ignore anyone who offers to take you closer for money. A good guide will explain the rituals calmly and with care.
The old city and its temples
Behind the ghats is a maze of narrow lanes, just wide enough for people, scooters and the odd cow, lined with shrines, sweet shops and small workshops. The most important temple is Kashi Vishwanath, dedicated to Shiva. It has strict security, and phones, bags and cameras are often not allowed inside; the rules change, so your guide will advise. Dress modestly and remove your shoes at any temple. A walk with a local guide is the best way to explore without getting lost.
Sarnath
About ten kilometres from the city, Sarnath is one of the most important places in Buddhism. It is here, in a deer park, that the Buddha is said to have given his first teaching after his enlightenment. Today you can visit the great Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of ancient monasteries, temples built by Buddhist communities from different countries and a museum whose collection includes the famous Lion Capital of Ashoka, India’s national emblem. It makes a peaceful half-day away from the intensity of the ghats.
Music, silk and food
Varanasi has a long tradition of classical music, and some of India’s great musicians have come from here. Small concerts and devotional singing are common, especially during festivals. The city is also famous for Banarasi silk, woven with fine gold and silver thread, and you can visit weavers’ workshops to see the looms at work. Try street food such as kachori with spicy potato for breakfast, sweet lassi served in clay cups and paan, the betel leaf preparation that Varanasi is known for.
Best time to visit Varanasi
The best time to visit Varanasi is from October to March. Mornings can be foggy in December and January, which can delay trains and flights but makes for atmospheric boat rides. Summer is very hot, and the monsoon raises the river, sometimes covering the lower ghats and limiting boats.
| Months | What to expect | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| October to March | Mild to warm days, cool mornings, some fog in mid-winter | Dawn boat rides, the ghats, festivals such as Dev Deepawali |
| April to June | Very hot and dry | Early morning boat rides only; quieter ghats |
| July to September | Monsoon rains and a high, fast river | Seeing the river in full flow; boat trips can be limited |
How long to stay and how Varanasi fits a trip
Allow two to three nights. That gives you a dawn boat ride, an evening aarti, a walk through the old city and a visit to Sarnath, with time to sit by the river and watch the day unfold.
Varanasi is easy to add to a Golden Triangle trip. Flights from Delhi take about an hour and a half, and trains from Delhi take roughly eight to twelve hours depending on the service. Overnight trains also connect Varanasi with Agra. A two-week trip might combine Delhi, Agra and Jaipur with a few days in Varanasi, perhaps adding Khajuraho’s temples on the way. Buddhist travellers often continue to Bodh Gaya, and Varanasi is a practical point from which to continue to Kathmandu for a trip that includes Nepal.
Tips for visiting Varanasi
- Get up early: the hour around sunrise is the calmest and most beautiful time on the river.
- Dress modestly: cover shoulders and knees, and remove shoes at temples.
- Ask before photographing: many people are happy to be photographed, but always ask, and never photograph cremations.
- Use a guide in the lanes: the old city is a maze, and a guide helps you see more and avoid touts.
- Do not drink or swim in the river: enjoy it from the steps or a boat.
Highlights
- A rowing boat along the ghats as the sun rises over the Ganges
- The evening Ganga aarti, with lamps, bells and chanting by the river
- Morning bathers, yoga and prayers on the riverside steps
- Walking the narrow lanes of the old city with a local guide
- Sarnath, where the Buddha is said to have given his first teaching
- Banarasi silk weaving, a craft handed down through families
- Classical music and devotional singing in a city of musicians
- Lamps floating on the river during the festival of Dev Deepawali
When to go & practical information
Best months: October, November, December, January, February, March
Recommended stay: 2–3 nights
Plan your trip to Varanasi
Tell us when you would like to go and what draws you to Varanasi. We will suggest a route that fits.
Plan My TripFAQs about Varanasi
Have more questions? Contact us.
October to March is the most pleasant time, with mild days and cool, sometimes foggy mornings in December and January. April to June is very hot, and during the monsoon the river rises, covering some ghats and limiting boat trips. November is especially atmospheric if your dates coincide with the festival of Dev Deepawali.
Two to three nights is ideal. That allows a dawn boat ride, an evening aarti, a walk through the old city and a half-day at Sarnath. Varanasi rewards a slower pace, so an extra night is rarely wasted.
Please do not photograph cremations or mourners. The burning ghats are places of grief for families, and photography there is considered deeply disrespectful. Your guide can explain the rituals from a respectful distance, ideally from a boat.
Flights from Delhi take about an hour and a half, and Varanasi also has flights from other major Indian cities. Overnight and faster daytime trains run from Delhi, taking roughly eight to twelve hours depending on the service. Trains also link Varanasi with Agra.
Many temples welcome respectful visitors, though access to some inner shrines can be restricted. The Kashi Vishwanath temple has strict security, and bags, phones and cameras are often not allowed inside; rules change, so your guide will advise on the day. Dress modestly and remove your shoes before entering any temple.
Yes, as long as you expect crowds, noise and an intense atmosphere in the old city. Having a local guide for the lanes and ghats makes a big difference, and staying near the river or in a quieter area gives you a place to rest. Many travellers find it the most moving part of their trip.