Bhutan in Depth: Paro to Bumthang

Follow the river for about an hour to Thimphu, the small capital, where traffic is still directed by hand at the main junction. See the Memorial Chorten, where older residents circle and spin prayer wheels, then the huge seated Buddha Dordenma above the valley. In the afternoon, visit the takin preserve and the school of traditional arts, and end at Tashichho Dzong if visiting is permitted that day.

Overnight: Thimphu · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Climb to the Dochula pass, at around 3,100 metres, with its 108 chortens and, on a clear morning, a long line of snow peaks to the north. Descend through forest to the warmer Punakha valley, about three hours in all. After lunch, walk through rice paddies to Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple linked to the Divine Madman, a much-loved figure in Bhutanese folklore.

Overnight: Punakha · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Spend the morning at Punakha Dzong, set where two rivers meet and widely regarded as one of the most beautiful dzongs in the country. Then drive about three hours up into the hills to the Phobjikha valley, a wide, open glacial valley at around 2,900 metres. Its marshy floor is a winter home for black-necked cranes, which usually arrive in late autumn.

Overnight: Phobjikha valley · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Visit Gangtey Goenpa, the monastery on a low hill overlooking the valley, then follow the gentle nature trail down through pine woods and across the valley floor, with wide views of farmhouses and potato fields. In crane season, the visitor centre explains their story, and you may see them feeding in the marsh. Sightings depend on season and luck. Evenings here are quiet and cool.

Overnight: Phobjikha valley · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

A long day of about seven hours by road crosses the Pele La pass, at around 3,400 metres, the traditional divide between west and central Bhutan. Stop at Trongsa to see its dzong, which stretches along a ridge above a deep gorge, and the watchtower museum above it. Continue over the Yotong La to Bumthang, at around 2,600 metres, arriving in the early evening.

Overnight: Bumthang · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Bumthang is rich in early Buddhist sites. Visit Jambay Lhakhang, said to date from the seventh century, and Kurjey Lhakhang, where a rock is believed to bear the body print of Guru Rinpoche. Walk across the river by footbridge to Tamshing Lhakhang, with its old wall paintings, then visit Jakar Dzong above the town. Try local buckwheat dishes at dinner.

Overnight: Bumthang · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive into the quieter Tang valley to Mebar Tsho, the Burning Lake, a deep pool in the river gorge linked to the legend of the saint Pema Lingpa. It is a sacred place, so your guide explains how to behave there. Continue to a village in the valley and see how farming families live, perhaps visiting a traditional house. Return to Jakar for a free late afternoon.

Overnight: Bumthang · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today you retrace the mountain road west, a long drive of about eight to nine hours with breaks for tea, lunch and leg stretches at the passes. The scenery shifts from fir forest to rhododendron to the warmer, terraced lands of the Punakha valley. When it operates, a short domestic flight to Paro can replace this drive; ask us when you plan.

Overnight: Punakha · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive back over the Dochula pass to Paro, about four hours with stops. In the afternoon, visit the National Museum in the old round watchtower above the valley, then explore the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong, which once guarded the route north. Spend the evening with a hot stone bath at a farmhouse, a Bhutanese custom, if you would like to try one.

Overnight: Paro · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Your final full day brings the hike to Taktsang, the Tiger’s Nest monastery, which clings to a cliff high above the valley floor. The path climbs steadily through blue pine, with prayer flags strung between the trees and a teahouse about halfway. Allow about five hours or more for the round trip. After ten days at altitude, the climb should feel easier than you expect.

Overnight: Paro · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After breakfast, your guide and driver accompany you to Paro airport for your flight out of Bhutan. Mountain weather can delay flights here, so we plan onward connections with a comfortable margin. Say goodbye to your guide, who by now knows your pace and your favourite dishes. End of your trip.

Overnight: — · Meals: Breakfast

Trips to Bhutan are arranged through licensed tour operators, and you travel with a licensed guide and driver. A daily Sustainable Development Fee also applies. Both rules change from time to time, so we confirm the current arrangements and your visa when we book.

Yes, the drives to and from central Bhutan are the longest part of the trip, about seven to nine hours on mountain roads. We break them with stops at passes, temples and villages. If you are prone to car sickness, bring remedies, or ask us about the domestic flight back to Paro.

The cranes usually spend the winter in the valley, roughly from late autumn to late winter, and are gone the rest of the year. Even in season, sightings depend on luck. Phobjikha is worth the visit at any time for its open landscape and monastery.

Many dzongs and temples hold tsechu festivals with masked dances, including in Punakha, Thimphu and Bumthang. Dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year, so tell us when you plan to travel and we will check what is on and shape the route around it.